Kashmiri food can be the simple meal of a family, or a
36-course wedding banquet called Wazawan. The staple diet of
every Kashmiri is rice, the most preferred being the dense,
slightly sticky grained Kashmir variety, which is prized in
the Valley.
Mutton, chicken or fish are of prime importance in Kashmiri
meal and everyday cooking often combines vegetable and meat in
the same dish. Mutton and turnips, chicken and spinach, fish
and lotus root are also very popular combinations. Pure
vegetarian dishes include dum-aloo - roasted potatoes in
curd-based gravy, and chaman- fried paneer (cottage cheese),
in a thick sauce. Non-vegetarian dishes are considered in
Kashmir to be a sign of lavish hospitality and at a Wazwan or
banquet, not more than one or two vegetarian dishes are
served. Sweets do not play an important role in Kashmiri
cuisine. Instead Kahva or green tea is used to wash down a
meal.
The waza (cooks) preparing Wazawan
Wazawan is usually served at weddings and parties. The most
commonly served items are rista (meat balls) made of finely
pounded mutton and cooked in a gravy; seekh kababs, tabak maz,
or flat pieces of meat cut from the ribs and fried till they
acquire a crisp crackling texture, roganjosh, which owes its
rich red colour to the generous use of Kashmiri chillies.
Yakhni, a cream coloured preparation of delicate flavour, is
made with curd as a base. Gushtaba, which is the last item to
be served in a traditional wazawan, are meatballs moulded from
pounded mutton like large-sized Rista but cooked in thick
gravy of fresh curd base. Dam-Aaloo and chaman are the
commonly served vegetarian dishes - to serve more than this
would indicate an unseemly tendency on the part of the host to
economize!
Several restaurants in Srinagar serve Kashmiri wazawan on
their menus. Mughal Durabar, Ahdoos and Grand, on the
Residency Road, offer authentic wazawan. Similarly, Broadway
Hotel on Maulana Azad Road arranges wazawan prepared by
professionals.
Some items of wazawaan
All the better hotels in Srinagar have attached restaurants,
generally serving Indian, Continental and Kashmiri cuisine.
Other restaurants are mainly located on the Boulevard,
Shervani (Residency) Road, Lambert Lane and Lal Chowk.
Mughal Durbar and Ahdoos on Shervani Road, Ruby in Lambert
Lane and Juniper in Lal Chowk are well known for their
Kashmiri cuisine. Solace and Tao Cafe on Shervani Road and
Shamyana on the Boulevard are three known garden cafes. There
are also several restaurants offering Chinese cuisines such as
J&K TDC’s Nun-Kun Restaurant near Nehru Park, Alka Salka on
Shervani Road and Lhasa on the Boulevard. Some restaurants,
both attached to hotels and independent, cater to the large
number of vegetarians who holiday in Kashmir. These are mainly
located in the Dalgate Kohna Khan area and on the Boulevard.
Amira Kadal and Dalgate have inexpensive eateries where you
can get simple, well cooked meals.
A traditional bakery shop in Srinagar
There are a number of bakeries at Dalgate and Shervani Road.
Some of them, in addition to patties and pastries, serve
Kashmiri breads like 'sheermal' and 'baqerkhani', without
which no Kashmiri breakfast is complete. Kashmiris use a
variety of breads seldom seen elsewhere.
Tsot and tsochvoru are small round breads, topped with poppy
and sesame seeds and traditionally washed down with salt tea